Little Portable Buddies

When you’re out there in the Big Country, alone and surviving by your wits on a vintage Honda twin you wind up reading a lot and the books that you do read wind up taking on a whole new level of importance. You can’t always read whatever you want so one winds up reading a weird assortment of whatever happens to be available. Bulky hardcovers are out and small paperbacks, easily stuffable into a saddlebag, are in. You take what you can get.

Drums on the Mohawk: Gather round young Turks and bear witness to lives unfolding on the American frontier during a young nation’s fight for independence from its overbearing British overlords. Supposedly a classic piece of American literature(I picked it out of the classics section at a used English-language book store in Ecuador), Drums reads like a pulp novel, though a good one at that. The book is well written and sets a good pace, with interesting and great descriptions of the peoples and places of the old New York hinterlands and beyond during the Revolutionary War. What a weird world it was back then when the realm of the Catskills was considered to be a frontier and greasy ol’ Indians trolled the woods for German scalps. A different place and time indeed, yet descriptions of olden tyme towns that still exist to this very day serve to rouse the misty-eyed wistfulness of even the most hardened of lonesome adventurers that occasionally pine for their old Catskillian haunts. Best read with a sack lunch atop Kaaterskill Falls, feet dangling lazily over the edge on a late-summer’s afternoon.

The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn: Mark Twain is the name of a knot a boatswain makes when he’s tying knots on the Mississippi. It also happens to be the pen name of one Samuel T. Clemens, considered to be one of the greatest American writers ever. I know this because I saw it explained on an episode of Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventures Saturday morning cartoon show when I was a kid and I’ve never forgotten it. Imagine that…a road trip through time! But, we’re getting off topic here. The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn is one of Twain’s most well-known works and it reads pretty well, although I might think twice about letting my black son read it because Twain uses the n-word a lot. A good travel-adventure tome for travelling adventurers. Borrows a lot from Heyerdahl’s mystical Kon-Tiki as we follow the young Huck and his manservant Jim as they float, sometimes lazily and sometimes not, on a raft down the mighty Mississippi. Rest assured that all ends well and there’s even a brief appearance by the loveable Tom Sawyer. A must read for any real Amurican.

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looking-for-history-dispatches-from-latin-america-alma-guillermoprieto-paperback-cover-artLooking for History: Dispatches from Latin America: Plucked from the shelves of a weird roadside motel in Costa Rica, this waterlogged, moldy tome was a good primer on Latin American history and served as a nice distraction while recovering from leishmaniasis in a hammock in Panama. Basically just a compilation of magazine articles touching on various latino topics such as Che, FARC, Subcommandante Marcos, and Evita, Looking for History reads pretty well and pretty quickly at that as each chapter is a different article. I became an expert on Latin America overnight and I really liked the picture on the front.

The Ra Expeditions: Thor Heyerdahl: The story of a boy with gumption. The Ra Expeditions was picked up when Looking for History was put down as we dangled lazily, languidly in our tropical Panamanian hammock. The Ra Expeditions follows Heyerdahl and his multinational team as they pilot a papyrus boat across the atlantic to prove that transoceanic travel was indeed possible, and possibly probable, in the times of ancient man. A paper boat across the Atlantic? Really? Really dog, it’s true. Look, Kon-Tiki it is not but Heyerdahl is still a God to be worshipped.

The Good ol’ Boys: Written by one Elmer Kelton, The Good Ol’ Boys is clearly a Louis L’amour rip off designed to cash in on the good sir’s popularity (well earned) and make a quick buck. All travelers looking to exchange books at Cafe Good in Baños, Ecuador read this review and ten cuidado! Look, we all knew before diving in to The Good Ol’ Boys that it wasn’t going to be as good as a L’amour book but we needed something to read in Nantar and all the other books on the shelf were in German or Spanish-language college textbooks (people should be lashed for that shit). Anyway, there’s not much of a story here. The main protagonist is Hewey, an aging bachelor cowboy who is off to visit his homesteading brother and fam when he runs afoul of the law by punching out a corrupt cop. Ok, so there’s some conflict there but then get this, there’s also an evil banker trying to run Hewey’s bro out of town and gobble up the farm for his own selfish interests. Real run of the mill stuff. There’s even a crappy romance as Kelton regales us with an awkward courtship from the manly, yet timid, Hewey Calloway and plain-Jane school marm Spring Renfro. Spring is referred to as being plain and, at first glance, not much to look at, but someone that’ll grow on you. C’mon, give us something we can work with, Elmer. The Good ol’ Boys is so terrible that at one point Hewey is referred to as ‘Henry’ and the book was ruined for me after that. One can imagine the Good ol’ Boys being passed around a barracks in Vietnam and guys teasing each other about how their girlfriend back home is uglier than Spring Renfro (the two-penny whore).

P1030799Fair Blows the Wind: Hands down the best Louis L’amour tome to date I’ve deigned to read on this magnificent voyage and it’s not even set in the wastelands of the old tyme American West. Unthoughtfully tossed in the throwaway section of a book exchange at a cafe in Baños(a different cafe than where The Good Ol’ Boys was sourced) by its pretentious gringo owner, Fair Blows was rescued and read almost in one sitting; an epic tale that was devoured by candlelight in the abandoned refugio slapped upon the slopes of the mighty Tungurahua volcano in the Ecuadorian andes. Swashbuckling, babes, adventures on not one but two continents, shipwrecks, and the possibility of a sequel make Fair Blows the Wind a worthy travel buddy that fits in your pocket! Order it now on Amazon for one penny!

Last of the Breed: Yet another Louis L’amour read! These things are like gold when you’re out there in the wilderness, surviving by your wits and popping your adventure zits! Running out of ammo and on the brink of Patagonia, Last of the Breed was discovered in the book exchange at Posta del Viajero in Azul, Argentina. Typical formulaic stuff and not one of Louis’ greatest, LotB was nevertheless a fun read. A western that takes place in the 1980′s in Siberia, LotB follows the adventures of Joe Mack, a half-breed American Injun who’s plane is shot down and is captured by the Russians and thrown into a prison camp in the middle of Siberia. Joe Mack escapes and we follow his exploits through the Siberian wilderness. In the dead of winter no less! Escape is impossible!! Right!? Isn’t it!? Well, maybe not for Joe Mack!

Alive: One of the weirdest tales of the twentieth century, Alive chronicles the hideous account of a Uruguayan rugby team whose plane crashes in the Andes and whose survivors are forced to eat the flesh of their dead brethren to survive. Would you eat your dead buddie’s balls? Seriously, that’s a legitimate question because that’s what these guys did. They ate everything. Genitals, brains, intestines…everything. A lot of people know this story from the movie of the same name starring a young Ethan Hawke, but the movie doesn’t show our heroes fashioning bowls out of the hallowed out skulls of the fallen, sumptuously supping stews made of brain matter and awful offal. On the chance occasion that they could scrounge some wood or flammable material from somewhere within what remained of the plane, they were able to cook the meat but they were mostly eating this stuff raw. A weird scene no doubt with the sucking of marrow out of broken bones and the fashioning of gaucho socks out of forearm skins peeled from corpses. As far as books go, Alive is not a great one but it is the story that shines and it doesn’t really matter how well it is written. What is weird is how the boys took to their meals with such relish, savoring every single part of the fallen. Weird enough that they’re eating the dead but even weirder that they’re eating their dicks and shit. To understand all this you’ve got to get into the mind of the carnivorous Argentine (or in this case Uruguayan) where the asado reigns supreme. Alive is a an interesting book indeed, and one that should be found slipped into the seatbacks of all trans-Andean flights.

Survivor: Not one of Pahlaniuk’s best, but not a bad read in and of itself. Devoured in Patagonia along with Last of the Breed, Survivor was a welcome companion to the cold and hungry lonesome traveler reading tentside in the barrenlands of Americas’ south. Fight Club it is not but Survivor is serviceable. Here we follow the exploits of an awkward survivor of one of America’s last religious death cults who send their young ones out into society to become indentured servants. All the members of the cult decide to kill themselves in a mass suicide but our hero is spared and he is now faced with living out the rest of a life that now has little meaning. His brother also survives and is trying to kill him and there’s a girl in it that can see the future, which is all too convenient and the plot leans on that a little too much. It’s not fair. The best part of the book is the opening salvo, and everything sort of gets a little boring from there. The pages count down instead of up.

Beyond the Sky and the Earth: A Journey into Bhutan by Jamie Zeppa: Travel narrative?Memoir? I’m not sure how to classify this book. Travel narrative I guess because you would probably find this in the travel section at a book store. A better place would be in the garbage pail. You know what this book is going to be like even before you open it, or at least I did. I don’t know why I traded Survivor for it, maybe I was just desperate to read something in the English tongue I was, but even then I knew. Beyond the Sky and the Earth is the account of a Canadian girl who lands a job teaching English in Bhutan. It is utterly predictable right down to the last page which I didn’t bother to read. Finding yourself(as in self discovery) in another country is the theme and milquetoast adventures are the game. Look, I could read Louis L’amour books and pulp fiction all day. That shit is predictable to a “T” but you know that the characters aren’t real, even the bad ones. The worst thing about Beyond the Sky and the Earth is that Jamie Zeppa is a real person.

Dance Hall of the Dead: “Go on take it, c’mon it’s a good book. Just go ahead and take it. It’s a good book, if you like Louis L’amour books you’ll like Dance Hall of the Dead,” said the enterprising used-book sales-bot in the same used-book store in Vilcabamba where we sourced Drums Along the Mohawk. Fine, alright, I’ll fucking take it. Jesus, you’re breath stinks, just get the fuck away from me. Right away I knew that the guy wanted me to buy it because there were three copies and he wanted to pare them down but I figured that if there were three copies of it then at least three people had read it and thought it worthy enough to lug it along with them all the way to Ecuador. All this went through my mind in a split second. So I took it and never looked back. Dance Hall is not bad. It’s pulp man, but we love pulp. A delightful romp into the Navajo criminal underbelly with striking scenes of the American southwest, and you know how we feel about the west and the southwest especially here at Manboy. While I didn’t care for the raised metallic lettering on the cover, Dance Hall is a worthy read.

Motorcycle Diaries: Or, Diarios de Motocicleta. Sourced on the mean streets of La Paz, Diarios follows the adventures of a young Che Guevarito and his buddy as they travel the South American continent in search of adventure. Beyond the Sky and the Earth it is not, The Motorcycle Diaries is not a bad read at all and is relatively easy to read in spanish, albeit with plenty of Argentinianisms. Reading the author’s thoughts about riding a motorcycle through the Atacama while riding a motorcycle through the Atacama was an interesting touch and Che’s descriptions of the landscapes, the food, and the people he encountered throughout the book were interesting, honest, and insightful. A treat indeed, as such seems to be a rarity these days. Perceptive readers may glance glimmers of an aspiring and ambitious sociopath. Can a million t-shirts be wrong?

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Happy Valentines Day America

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i love you all

Happy New Year

Happy New Year America; from the meat markets of ol’ Mexico.

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…ride the worm. 2013

 

Hot off the presses!

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A man is crossing the Patagonian plateau, covered in wool from his scarf to his gaiters, using two Galapagos tortoise shells as snowshoes…

A man is slipping on a speedo as he dives into the Panamanian Strait, covered in vaseline and towing a 1975 Honda motorbike on a raft made of dunglewood…

A man is nearing the end of his trip, but not the end of his journey, as he slides closer and closer to the end…

…exclusive excerpt from God in Submission:
P1060080“…the person who made me realize that helping others was my purpose in life was Randy Armstrong, a 15-year-old leukemia patient who visited the Manboy headquarters in June 2012. After his death, I received a letter from him begging me to help other sick children forget their pain. The letter came with a photograph of Randy in his casket dressed in the Manboy hat and jacket that I had given him as mementos of his visit. From that moment on, I felt that it was a spiritual calling and maybe it explained why I had been chosen as the Manboy. It was a much bigger responsibility than playing the hero on an internet blog. I actually had to be a hero now. My quest, my calling, had begun. From then on, we opened the doors of the Knight Rider set to any suffering child.”

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ushuaia during the day

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chile

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The end of the world for the end days.

Don’t forget to turn out the light.

motorcycle mate madness

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Gather round young ones, children of the plains, mis gauchitos, and I’ll tell you a tale of maté and might, of lone warriors sipping bitter tonics from hollowed out gourds before being sent off to the battle that is their lives!


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Yerba maté, the Argentinian national drink, is a green concoction, a bitter herb similar to coffee or tea if only for its stimulant properties. All Argentines young and old can be seen sporting designer maté kits about town, sipping the strange brew from hollowed out gourds or fancy silver cups bedazzled with jewels. A good mate kit will contain a maté cup or suitable chalice, some herb, a bombilla, and a thermos. Add bonus points for an attractive leather case which holds everything within.

While the reality of sipping said tonic is a sad one indeed for most (the taste is bitter and one to be aquired) the ritual of maté preparation is a fine one indeed.

…a primer for delving into your own personal maté madness:

1. Put on a tea kettle.

2. Whilst your water is heating up, decant your chosen brand of yerba maté into your most favorite gourd or maté chalice about 3/4 of the way to the top. Put your hand over the top of your cup and then turn it upside down and shake it a few times. This mixes up the maté and helps to get rid of some of the herbal dust, which will stick to your sweaty palm (don’t be so nervous!). Creepy porteños (ciudadanos of Buenos Aires) like to mix in sugar with their maté, but this should be considered sacrilege to all true maté aficionados and may anger the Gods. You have been warned.

3. Let your water come to a boil, remove your kettle from the burner, and ready your thermos. Just like with coffee, you want to let your water cool for a moment before brewing your maté. Water that is too hot will just spoil everything.

4. There are a couple odd variants for getting this right. One is to fill your maté cup with cool water first to wet the herb and make sure that it is not imparted a bitter taste by the hot, hot water. In truth, we feel this to be an unnecessary step and one that yields a first cup of cold drink, which tastes terrible. Better to place your bombilla, or metal sipping straw, into the mate first, decanting the hot water down it’s length to cool it a bit before it strikes your precious herb. See: Brady’s dad.

5. And there you have it, your maté is ready to be sipped. Go ahead and continue to add water as needed from your thermos. Keep in mind that some say it sacrilege to wet the herb fully, and to never let the water rise above the level of the herb itself. I consider this to be a good rule of thumb and one that produces the most precious drink. But…do as thou wilt because it’s really just some variant of tea. Best or better to impart your own variant of the mate ritual on the cosmic game.

Motorcycle mate kit

Motorcycle mate kit

There are a whole bunch of other rules for sharing your mate if your in a group but…c’mon, why do you people have to share everything? It’s not like sip sip pass with coffee in the states. What’s next? Soup? A singular lollipop?  An ice cream cone?

Well, it’s a party y’all

The Daily Penguin

Beer in bed

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P1050876Some things change and some things stay the same. Bathing nude in glacial melt and supping seal meat aside, a year and a half on the road and we always seem to end up in the same place: drinking beer in bed and patiently awaiting the end of days. It’s all just a week away they say and we all still can’t just chill out; a pilfered copy of the daily penguin brings tales of woe, brutal muggins and tearful beatings. A world gone mad.

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The final hour.

What will it bring? What does it all mean?

Does it matter?

We’ve breached Chile now, and again, and are chilling out in Punta Arenas. Not a bad place to spend some time, whittle away a few kopeks and cut some whale teeth. There’s something of a craft beer revolution going on here and not since Quebec have we seen such a menagerie of different and delightful brews lining the shelves in the local supermercado. The local brews have got something going on indeed and Cerveza Austral presents with a quartet of impressive entries.

P1050955Cerveza Austral: Zounds, this may be the best Latino brew yet! A true surprise! Costing no more than a dusty Quilmes, Chile’s Cerveza Austral is a steal. A wheaty, meady taste that’s hearty indeed. Why, you could have one for dinner. The best of the lot so far of all of continental South America, it’s a shame we had to wait this long. Like drinking a glass of delicious bread. 

P1060051Cerveza Austral Calafate Ale: Legend has it that any manchild who ingests the prized calafate berry will return to the land of their dreams: Patagonia. Can the same be said for cerveza Austral’s Calafate brew? We’ll just have to wait and see but maybe this is the stuff of legend indeed. A delicious brew at the end of the world? Sure, why not and Calafate Ale delivers. Delicious and delightful, notes of the calafate berry are felt, and blueberry-like is this particular brew. Fantastic. Que rico. Damela. Puta. Ahora.

P1050960Cerveza Austral Dark: Not bad, not bad at all. A dark brew indeed it is, but nothing too impressive. Another round for reppin’ the windblown Patagonian tree, knarled and shaped by the relentless winds which sweep and below across the continent. 

P1060033Cerveza Austral Pale Ale: Not disappointing. Pale aley, nothing more. Not as hoppy as one might imagine. Nonetheless, it’s a real Pale Ale and at the end of the earth no less. To the Austral brewery and it’s delicious brews, and to the end of the world. And to the end…

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P1060043King Crab empanadas abound in Chilean Patagonia

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A lil’ za, brah?

Finally, the reviews are in!

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We’re a long way from Buenos Aires, taking care of business and putting God in Submission in the Patagonian hinterlands. A long way indeed.

But that doesn’t mean that we can’t hark back to times that once were. So let’s drift back to our Argentinian salad days, back to old Buenos Aires town when once the hunt was on for the capital’s best pizza.

Look, we won’t even discuss how much we miss Mexican street food or pine for a cheesy ass slice of quality New York pizza these days. And truth be told, even the humble almuerzo set lunch so ubiquitous throughout the rest of Latin America is thoroughly missed. Argentina is in some sort of financial crisis and, coming from Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia, food prices are surprisingly expensive here. Unless you want a shitty hotdog or terrible hamburger, there is a total and complete dearth of street foods here, or any cheap eats for that matter. This is tiresome because street eats are the staple food of the independent and lonesome traveler. You can’t have a parilla everyday and a body grows tired of sandwiches.

P1050978So imagine our surprise when we get to Buenos Aires and find out that pizza is, more often than not, sold by the slice here and for about the same price as back in NYC. A real steal. In most of Latin America, pizza is a sit-down restaurant style affair with waiters and menus and cloth knapkins. A foreign concept and one that is off putting to any pizza aficionado.  It’s all just too pretentious and weird,  like the pizza is taking itself too seriously. Then there’s the fast-food weird shit like pizza-conos, which are like pizza tacos; dough rolled up into a cone with cheese and sauce and pepperoni stuffed inside. All straight out of the freezer…it should be outlawed.

But at least the porteños give it a shot and dish out something akin to real pizza, sold by the slice, fresh out the oven, and fast to your plate. Although, they still can’t shake the idea of pizza being a restaurant thing, with bowtied waiters strutting about; and those that wish to dine without service are made to stand in a separate section like animals. Whatever, I’ll take it and truth be told, we actually started developing a fondness for the typical Argentine slice.

Look, pizza is pizza but it’s good to know some important terms, so thus a brief primer on Argentine ‘za:

Fugazzeta: An Argentinian original, the Fugazzeta slice is a doughy variant of a regular  slice but absolutely smothered in onions. Some come with ham and other things on them also but the main theme is onion, lots of onion. Taste’s better than one might think. Oniony.

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Faina: Faina is just sort of like thin greasy bread, made with chickpea flour. It’s weird at first, but grows on a body. You put it on top of your regular slice and sort of eat it like that. Builds character they say.

Anchoa: The anchoa slice is just pizza bread and sauce with anchovies on top. If you want cheese on it you have to ask for it. With cheese please. It’s nice to see the anchovy get some face time down here as few in the states dare to do it.

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The Mozza: A regular slice of mozzarella cheese pizza. The typical Argie slice is thick, billowy even, and totally smothered in cheese. Sort of like what you get when you order a sicilian slice in New York.

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Napolitana: This slice is basically the same as the mozza except it has tomatoes on top. It’s alright I guess. Not much else goin’ on here though.

And so, with time to kill and a belly to fill the search was on for Buenos Aires’ best. Mexican American pal Aaron joined us for a whirlwind tour of the capitals biggest and baddest pizza joints.

Kentucky: Bearing the namesake of America’s most troubled state, Kentucky is one of the older pizza joints in Buenos Aires and its intial, and continuing, success has led it on the path to franchisedom. As such, methinks that said move has led its quality to suffer somewhat. The mystical, magical fugazzetta rellena so often recommended was a moist, soggy affair and a tepid one at that as it could have benefitted greatly from a bit more oven time. Hostel mate and Chicano Aaron’s Napolitana slice played the same cool tune, like many a porteña strumpet. Although, a free ice cream did enhance the mood somewhat and the Kentucky out on avenida Corrientes in the Microcentro is a clean joint, classy even says Aaron, “with a good vibe.”

Guerrin: Pack it up, pack it in, let me begin by telling you that pizza by Guerrin, just a quick stroll down Avenida Corrientes from Kentucky, is always a packed, bustling affair. Busy as balls it is and for good reason. Rub elbows with the Gods at old Guerrin and do yourself a solid by ordering up a porcion de mozza at this BsAs mainstay. How I stopped worrying and learned to love Argentinian pizza. Lots of grease, not enough sauce, swimming in cheeese, pillowy crust, blah blah blah. New York pizza it’s not but we’re not in old New York anyway and anyways Pizza by Guerrin serves up good stuff, a fine example of what Argentinian pizza is, or has become at this juncture in time, and so close to the end of days and the upcoming baktun. Cheese is top-notch as well as the crust, both cooked to crispy perfection. Consistent stuff and a favorite of all Buenes Aires manchildren and children of man.

El Cuartito: If TGI Fridays or Applebees solely sold pizza in Argentina they would aspire to be El Cuartito. Best atmosphere of the lot: waiters with bow-ties and kitschy framed pictures of celebrities and sports personalities that line the walls define this place. For one hallucinatory instant I swear that I caught the covetous eye of Chris Mullin mind-raping my anchoa slice from high up on the wall along with the rest of the original G’s from the 92 Dream Team lined up on their 20 year old poster shielded from the elements and pizza grease behind thick glass. Extra points are awarded for having not one but several Mike Tyson posters, all placed prominently, and a nice portrait of Diego from his anchovy days with Boca. Pizza was not much to blog home about, although it wasn’t terrible. A little soggy. Before departure, it was pointed out that Aaron had left a small piece of his anchoa slice behind and when confronted stated that he “didn’t really enjoy it that much.” Although it should be noted that when pressed further he backpedalled and said, “It was OK.” Take that for what it’s worth.

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Las Cuartetas: Another Buenos Aires institution Las Cuartetas, across the street from cross-street rivals Guerrin, comes in close second to cross-street rivals Guerrin. Cheesiest, greasiest slice yet but delicious at that as all ingredients are of the highest caliber. It has been told that if one were to bite into a slice of Las Cuartetas greasy, cheesy ass mozzarrella with eyes wide shut then they will be, if only for the briefest flash or glimmer in time, be transported back to the gritty streets of old New York to a favorite pizza haunt existing only in memory, so reminiscient of the New York sicilian slice is the Las Cuartetas mozza.

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Banchero: Avenida Corrientes, for a short stretch, seems only to be flanked by pizza joints and theaters. Las Cuartetas, Guerrin, Kentucky, Banchero, and countless others are pretty much right next to each other. Banchero sort of gets lost in the crowd here, although with good reason as it doesn’t really offer up anything too special or amazing to take notice of. Standard, run of the mill Argentinian pizza is all that’s on the menu at Banchero. Not bad, better than most, but decidedly not the best. Entonces: eh. Slice was good, containing the appropriate amount of sauce, but not great. Cheese quality did not seem to be up to par with Cuartetas or Guerrin.

Uggis: Uggi’s pizza is the Argentine equivalent of NYC dollar pizza, I guess. Uggi’s is the cheapest pizza you can get in old Buenos Aires town and is about as good as you’d expect, although maybe a little better. Derided by most foodies, Uggi’s pizza comes in only two variants: plain or with onions. It’s really not that horrible and it’s salvation lies in it’s consistency and availability. There are over 40 locations in BsAs proper and they’re all pretty much the same. The pizza chefs are all recovering drug addicts and alcoholics and each pizza box warns its recipient to stay away from drugs and bad things. There’s a strange, desperate air to the Uggi’s on avenida Entre Rios, as it features one man, behind a steel cage with a little hole in it to collect money and slide pizzas through, doing everything by himself. On his own terms.

So, where can a body find the best pizza in old Buenos Aires town?

The prize goes to ol’ Guerrin followed by Las Cuartetas, both doin’ it right and well after all these years. The others are the others, and just seem to be slinging some odd variant of the same, although one gets the feeling that when Buenos Aires finally goes up in flames the man behind the cage at Uggi’s will still be feverishly working away, going down with his ship.

And the band played on.